Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs

Art and Architecture


Flights of Fantasy Lithian Ricci’s rainbow house on the Golden Horn, by Berrin Torolsan · 42

The Ottoman exile of a Swedish king

Saved by the Royal Bed Philip Mansel on the eye-opening legacy of Charles XII · 54

Cornelius Loos: the Marvellous Eye of the King’s Artist Robert Ousterhout wonders at Cornelius Loos’s drawings of Ayasofya in 1711 · 78 Rome’s Turkish Secret Rooftop Orientalism in the Villa Medici, by Paolo Girardelli · 104


Age of Innocence An idyllic childhood in Fifties Turkey, by Tony Hallas · 84


Mistaken Identities Julian Raby on the true Roxelana · 8 Orbs and Orbits On colour and memory: Etel Adnan, by Thomas Roueché · 16

Women’s Own Artists emerge from the shadows, by Andrew Finkel · 18 Losing the Art of Living in Hope Old meets new at the Sakıp Sabancı · 20


Rupert Scott on the Dilettanti’s grand expedition to Ionia · 23 Robert Ousterhout on the buried charms of the sultans’ first capital · 26

Jennifer Wearden on the lasting lure of Greek Island embroideries · 28

Maureen Freely on the fervour of Mary Mills Patrick · 29

Thomas Roueché on satire in Bolshevik Baku · 31 Barnaby Rogerson on a celebration of ancient Caria · 32 The Empire Line The Ottoman railway revolution, by Mehmet Kentel · 34


Going with the Grain Berrin Torolsan on the nutty joys of bulgur, an Anatolian staple · 112

The Smile that Launched a Thousand Shish Andrew Finkel on Beyti Güler’s unique restaurant · 120

From Our Correspondents Concerts Streaming consciousness, by John Shakespeare Dyson · 128

Film Dogumentary (or It’s a Dog’s Life) by Christopher Trillo · 130

Private View Andrew Finkel’s Istanbul diary · 131 The View from Central Asia Caroline Eden on a very Kyrgyz coup · 132

Letter from Anatolia Roger Norman on a feisty football club · 136


The ‘Immortal’ Cyril Mango Robert Ousterhout pays tribute to the great Byzantinist · 134

Cover The Italian artist Lithian Ricci’s dining room, Istanbul. Photograph by Monica Fritz (see ‘Flights of Fantasy’, page 42)