Contents

REGULARS

4 bias / contributors are going green

5 correspond / enquire We welcome your questions, comments and criticism

7 inform / inspire / insight Five pages of news, trends and novel ideas

16 compose Indefensible beauty: Do bull fighting’s gorgeous costumes glamorise an inhumane pursuit, art or atrocity?

22 concept Sympathy for the devil, Catherine Harper explores the controversial art of Tracey Emin.

26 project Khadi: The freedom fabric. Brinda Gill unravels the history of this versatile and enduring cloth. Plus the subtle qualities of designer Christina Kim and her work in khadi.

37 anecdote ‘horses sweat, men perspire but ladies glow’ and it seems in the 18th century they had very little choice.

44 destination They say ‘Paris in springtime’, we say New York in summer. It’s hot but... Oh! so cool.

48 global Crafting a culture - Jeni Allenby traces the course of Palestinian political embroidery since 1949.

82 quintessence Emily Dyson reveals the inspirations behind her quirky creations.

84 read Reviews of the latest books that speak volumes.

86 view Critiques of the latest shows.

93 divulge / declare / disclose International listings and previews

FEATURES

13 conversation piece: Curator, conservationist and artist discuss a recent commission for the Whitworth Art Gallery.

35 fashion’s greeneyed: fresh and bright. Don’t let the grass grow under your feet.

38 home is where the art is. Gay Daniel’s collection is housed in America and the UK. Olga Norris receives a warm welcome.

40 talented embroiderer and friend of Sylvia Pankhurst, Lilias Swain was in danger of being forgotton. Thomasina Beck rescues her from obscurity.

52 ‘the personal is political’ Bradley Quinn takes on the issue-based work of fashion designer Lucy Orta.

56 speaker’s corner: Katharine Hamnett’s outspoken views on fair trade textiles.

60 sweet like candy but are they empty calories? Nicola Donovan reports from London Fashion Week and the beautifully crafted collections of Jessica Ogden.

64 Liz Hoggard finds the ‘soul of the north’ in these Finnish textiles.

68 northern highlights - We head to Helsinki to find the hotspots in this cold country.

70 cohabit Raindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens, Christina Strutt shows us some of her favourite things.

75 bikini babe, we profile talented illustrator and textile designer Virginia Johnson.

76 united nations the stunning work of Yoshiko Jinzenji captures the essence of three cultures.

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