Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs

Travellers’ Tales

Cover Story

Adventures of the Three Donketeers Anatolia on foot 40 years ago, by Christopher Trillo · 42

Central Asia

From Steppe to Snow to Desert Sands The Fabric of Life: Ergun Çağatay’s Epic Journey Caroline Eden introduces a new book by the celebrated photographer · 106 In the Realm of the Ice Queen Chris Gardner tracks the ancient flora of the Silk Road · 114 King of the Gobi John Hare on how the two-humped wild camel was saved from extinction · 128

Art and Architecture

Living the Ottoman Dream Berrin Torolsan is enchanted by the House of Hindliyan · 24

Behind Palace Doors Philip Mansel on the fascinating go-between

who revealed the Topkapı to Enlightenment Europe · 80


Life after Life A tribute to Suna Kıraç, founder of the Pera Museum · 5 Motifs and Motives The meanings and origins of designs, by Venetia Porter · 8 The Art of Letter Writing Tim Stanley on the father of Turkish calligraphy · 10

Plus exhibition and saleroom highlights · 12


A Long Journey Rosamond E Mack on Bellini’s influential portrait of Mehmed the Conqueror · 19 A Magnificent Süleyman Julian Raby on a newly discovered portrait of the Sultan in his prime · 21

Right Royal Double Act Barnaby Rogerson on Alexander the Great and his father · 22 Here’s to You, Mrs Robinson David Barchard on the colourful life of an East End widow · 23

Cookery Sweet Endings

Berrin Torolsan on hoşaf, the Turkish compote, a perfect finale to any meal · 134

From Our Correspondents Istanbul Diary Private view, by Andrew Finkel · 16 Concerts Virtuoso reality, by John Shakespeare Dyson · 143

Restaurants Mega bites, by Andrew Finkel · 144 Film Beauty and the bees, by Christopher Trillo · 148

Postscript David Barchard 1947–2020

Roger Norman and Patricia Daunt pay tribute to a fine journalist and scholar · 146

Cover On the road, Anatolia 1981, by Stephen Scoffham (see ‘Adventures of the Three Donketeers’, page 42)