Turkey for Connoisseurs


Cover Story The Ottoman Pleasure Garden: How gardens became an art form, by John Carswell · 40


City of Shadows: the Citadel of Kirkuk, by Owen Matthews · 50 Mary’s House: the dream that led to the Virgin’s house at Ephesus, by Donald Carroll · 68

Wild Beauties of the South: plant-hunting in the Taurus, by Martyn Rix · 74

Art & Architecture Connoisseur: Iznik ceramics on show in Qatar, with a review of the catalogue by Godfrey Goodwin · 7

Alchemy on a Plate: the first daguerreotypes of Istanbul, by Elizabeth Meath Baker · 34

The House on the Hill: a modern classic in Kalkan, by Andrew Finkel · 82

Remarkable Lives

The Quiet Revolutionary: Namık Kemal, poet and political prophet, by Osman Streater · 19

The Wrong Side of History: the extraordinary Strangfords, by David Barchard · 90


John Drake on Nurhan Atasoy’s ‘A Garden for the Sultan’ · 23

Antony Wynn on Christian Tyler’s ‘Wild West China’ · 24 Norman Stone on Heath Lowry’s ‘The Nature of the Early Ottoman State’ · 26

David Barchard on David Shankland’s ‘The Alevis in Turkey’ · 28


Solar Energy: tomatoes – the taste of summer all year round,

by Berrin Torolsan · 98

Off the Eaten Track: Charles Perry on the Central Asian way with noodles · 126

Regulars Private View by Andrew Finkel · 12 Trade Secrets: Beyoğlu’s bespoke shoe shops · 106

Village Voices by Azize Ethem · 113

Istanbul Diary: Dance, classical music, jazz and the Biennial · 117 Food for Thought: Eating out in Istanbul, Kalkan and Edinburgh · 122


Detail from the album ‘Hamse-i Atayî’, 1721, in the Walters Museum, Baltimore;

from A Garden for the Sultan by Nurhan Atasoy (Koç Kültür Sanat Tanıtım)