Contents TURKEY F0R CONNOISSEURS

CONNOISSEUR

COVER STORY A PASSION FOR FASHION

The cutting-edge couture of Dice Kayek, by Nilgin Yusuf· 9

ARTS DıARY, by Thomas Roueche · 24

TRAVEL THEAEGEAN

SEA OF BLOOMS Botanical travels in the coastal Southwest by Ro FitzGerald · 28 CENTRAL ANATOLIA

Ü N THE RoAD TO Rurns Anatolia in the ı88os, seen through the lens of John Henry Haynes,

father of American archaeological photography, by Robert Ousterhout · 3 8

THE EASTERN BORDERS

QuEEN OF THE WILD FRONTIER Min Hogg journeys from Kars to Van · 94

PEOPLE & PLACES

THE BoTTLE-TOP MANSION The Ertegün family and the story of

Turkey's Washington Embassy, by Thomas Roueche · 58 ADVENTURES IN lsTANBUL Life in the Sixties, by Griselda Warr · 78 SıLENT WITNESS The ethereal photographs of Metehan Ö zcan, by Maureen Freely · 102

BooKs PRICELESS PAN0RAMAS

An album of early-ı9th-century engravings of Istanbul goes under the hammer · 22

BooK REVIEWS

Gerald MacLean on the ever-effervescent Evliya Çelebi

Rupert Scott on the enduring lure of ruins · David Barchard on the real story of the army

Caroline Finkel on the bias and self-interest of chroniclers · 17

Fooo PLUM PERFECT, by Berrin Torolsan · ıo8

REGULARS PRIVATE Vrnw, by Andrew Finkel · ı 2 VıLLAGE VoıcEs Azize Ethem's Iznik diary · ı ı 8 EATING Ü UT Andrew Finkel's quest for the Perfect Watering Hole · 126

Cover: A sculpted dress in white organdie by Dice Kayek

Courtesy of Istanbul Modern. See page 9