Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs



A Black Sea miracle: how the birds of the Kızılırmak Delta made their comeback · 48

Tales from the Birdman, by Emin Yoğurtcuoğlu · 66 Three Days that Saved the World, by Caterina Scaramelli · 72

Riders of the Lost Paths

The photographer Mark Cator travels on horseback through the valleys of ancient Phrygia,

and Patricia Daunt recalls the intrepid riders who inspired the journey · 92

Art and Architecture

The Painter who Vanished

Joseph Schranz and his magnificent Bosphorus panoramas, by Briony Llewellyn · 30

The Sleeping Beauty

The Kavafyan Konak, oldest house on the Bosphorus, awaits the kiss of life. By Burak Çetintaş · 76


Ottomans at Versailles; colourful Kütahya; a sultan’s search for his roots;

Osman Hamdi Bey beneath the veneer; Istanbul goes swimming;

a Palace secretary’s indiscreet memoir · 5

People The Summer of Love

Rupert Scott talks to the charismatic Iris Love about Aphrodite · 42

Lenin’s Eminence Grise Norman Stone on the wily Parvus Efendi · 112


Malika Browne on a biography of the artist Fahrelnissa Zeid; Jason Goodwin on Empress of the East, a life of the slave girl who married a sultan; Barnaby Rogerson on Francis Russell’s 123 Places, and on the search for Rome’s eastern frontier;

David Barchard on Ottoman Turkey as Britain imagined her · 21


Happiness is Pear-Shaped Berrin Torolsan turns poacher and pickler · 114


Eating Out New finds in Istanbul, by Andrew Finkel · 121 Village Voices Azize Ethem on Uncle Henry and the Cicero Affair · 123

Letter from Anatolia By Roger Norman · 125

Private View by Andrew Finkel · 128

Cover A black tern (Chlidonias niger) on the Kızılırmak Delta, photographed by Emin Yoğurtcuoğlu. See ‘Waterworld’, page 58