Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs

ISTANBUL UNWRAPPED Part Four of Cornucopia’s Celebration of Istanbul

The Princes Islands

Istanbul’s unspoilt archipelago

A 64-page portrait, with photographs by Brian McKee and Monica Fritz · 64

Setting the scene

Each to Their Own – the four principal islands · 66


The Writer’s Island, by Owen Matthews · 74 Sights and Delights of an Enchanted Isle · 78

Heybeliada Notes on a Smaller Island · 98

Burgazada One-Hill Burgaz, by Harriet Rix · 108


Echoes of a Golden Age, by Harriet Rix · 112


The haunted island, by Owen Matthews · 120


The Empire Unvarnished Luigi Mayer’s Ottoman watercolours, by Briony Llewellyn · 48


Tim Cornwell on Jean-Étienne Liotard’s luminous portraits at the Royal Academy · 5

Three archaeological exhibitions, in Istanbul, Berlin and Philadelphia · 12 Sotheby’s winning talismanic shirt; Zero at the SSM; Bare, Naked, Nude at the Pera Museum · 22

Thomas Roueché on the 2015 Istanbul Biennial · 24


A tryst with turquerie, Albania and the Ottomans, Istanbul in the Jazz Age, Victoria’s man in Istanbul,

the mysterious Armand de Potter, and a caique named Bouboulina · 31


Broad Bean Feast Twelve thousand years of taste and nourishment, by Berrin Torolsan · 128


Private View by Andrew Finkel · 27 Ottoman Lives by David Barchard · 44 Ancient and Modern by John Carswell · 134 Village Voices by Azize Ethem · 136 Eating Out by Andrew Finkel · 139 Letter from Anatolia by Roger Norman · 143

Cover Jean-Étienne Liotard: Laura Tarsi, ‘a Grecian Lady’, c.1745–49, watercolour and bodycolour on ivory, height 96mm

© Fitzwilliam Museum, Cambridge