Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs

Cover Story A Citadel on the Silk Road

The late Brian McKee’s photographic essay on the İshak Pasha Palace on Turkey’s eastern border · 68

Art and Architecture

End of Empire

In the Den of the Lion King Assyrian treasures at the British Museum · 34 Digging for Glory Everyday life on the edge of the Assyrian Empire · 48

Awash with Meaning

The considered art of Navine G Khan-Dossos, by Jamie Leptien · 58

Sicily’s Golden Age

Dazzling Byzantine mosaics in Palermo, by Robert Ousterhout · 92

The Sultan’s Pride and Fall

Istanbul Landmarks Paolo Girardelli explores the Imperial School of Medicine · 102

Back in Time for Lunch Evergreen Pandeli rises again, by Andrew Finkel · 108


Well-dressed Ottomans, very early Iznik and other saleroom highlights; new museums for Ara Güler and Josephine Powell; a spectacular gallery for the British Museum’s Islamic art;

Galatasaray Lycée at 150; Istanbul’s Design Biennial; high-tech Çatalhöyük · 5


David Wheeler on an Ottoman garden of delights; Owen Matthews on Black Sea, a book of travel and food;

Jason Goodwin on Stamboul Ghosts, John Freely’s fond farewell to Beyoğlu · 19

People The Intelligence of Ármin Vámbéry

Norman Stone chronicles the colourful but shadowy life of a polyglot Orientalist · 26


Earthy Powers Berrin Torolsan on the potency of chard and beetroot · 118


Eating Out New finds in Istanbul, by Andrew Finkel · 126 Sound Judgement John Shakespeare Dyson looks back on a summer of music · 128

Village Voices Azize Ethem’s farewell to Iznik · 132

Private View by Andrew Finkel · 136

Cover ‘A Citadel on the Silk Road’: the İshak Pasha Palace, Doğubayazıt. Photograph by Brian McKee, page 68