CONTENTS

INDULGE textiles to buy, collect or simply admire 11 WHERE IN THE WORLD Exploring the terrain of Rachel Hazell’s bookbinding by Niamh McCooey 12 COMMITMENT-PHOBE Choosing the right college can be a challenge so we ask alumni what was special about their education

GLOBAL textiles from around the world 15 MERCHANT’S CARGO In a new series of works, photographer Loes Heerink captures Vietnamese street vendors from above 48 BON VOYAGE A journey through French textile history by Geneviève Woods, illustrated by Anna Simmons 58 COTTON TAIL How King Cotton shaped the Industrial Landscape on both sides of the Atlantic by Robin B.Williams Ph.D and Vincent McKernan

ANECDOTE textiles that touch our lives 66 NORTH AND SOUTH Tensira exports: Made in Africa to the world by Amelia Thorpe, photographs by Mark Eden Schooly, styling by Nelson Sepulveda 56 ON THE BAYOU The story of Acadian Brown Cotton by Sharon Gordon 96 FABRIC SWATCH Favourite Fabric no 36: Fly Fringe by Sarah Jane Downing, illustrated by Elle Curtis

ATTIRE critical reporting of fashion trends 26 AS FRESH AS A DAISY Sula’s interpretation of Vietnamese whitework by Amy de la Haye, photographs by Aaron Joel Santos 32 DRESS DOWN Virginia Woolf’s life in clothes by Caroline Zoob 36 FLY ME TO THE MOON Delpozo brings lunar glamour to earthly garments by Kate Cavendish

CONCEPT textiles in fine art 20 WRAPPED UP Kimsooja unwraps the cultural history of Bottari by Jessica Hemmings

INDUSTRY from craft to commerce 40 DOMINO EFFECT Antoinette Poisson revives an old wallpaper technique by Anne Laure Camilleri 52 MADE IN INDIA The fashion for Indian textiles in the United States by Linda Baumgarten 74 MELTING POT Pancultural beauty in Batik Pekalongan by Sophie Vent

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DOMINO EFFECT How Antoinette Poisson revive old wallpaper techniques

Stepping into Antoinette Poisson’s studio in Paris, you feel a serene and cosy atmosphere. In the foyer, the scenic wallpaper offers a warm background for a newly upholstered antique sofa, folding screens and tastefully arranged printed cushions. The soft colour palette and the brand’s signature patterns highlight the exquisite elegance of domino papers, a virtually forgotten decorative art until this budding atelier took the chance to revive the legacy of the French Dominotiers. Before wallpaper could be produced in continuous rolls, single sheets called “dominos” were printed and coloured by hand. These decorated papers reached their heyday in the 18th century and were typically used for lining chests, boxes and books, occasionally adorning the walls of intimate rooms.

Julie Stordiau, Jean-Baptiste Martin and Vincent Farelly were studying paper conservation when they met in Paris. They bonded over their mutual interest in antique papers, and after graduating in 2006 they went to work as freelance restorers, often collaborating on conservation projects across Europe. In 2011, they gathered to restore a state owned mansion in the Auvergne region where the 18th century domino wallpaper was in very poor condition and had to be reproduced. “We’d seen domino paper scraps before, usually as book endpapers or lining the backs of picture frames, but it was the first time we actually had to treat a whole room. We suddenly realized it was a vanishing craft when we failed to find an artisan who could reproduce the dominos from the original documents for us. Since we had the skills and knowledge, we agreed we would do it ourselves,” explains Julie Stordiau. When this challenging project was completed, they couldn’t help but admire the striking effect of pattern repeats revealed by the 250 sheets pasted together. Their enthusiasm prompted them to join forces to launch their own firm, named after the Marquise de Pompadour, born Jeanne-Antoinette Poisson and widely known as patron of the arts and mistress to King Louis XV.

Although they do maintain a conservation department, their focus has clearly shifted toward interior design and home accessories. “Art conservation is mainly about chemistry and we all felt the need to be truly creative. We’ve always had a great interest in wallpaper and we love the idea of showing the lesser-known, not so opulent 18th century styles,” says Julie Stordiau.

They began by reissuing a series of motifs that lined devotional shadow-boxes dating from the 18th century and originally made by nuns, for the New National Museum of Monaco. Their current portfolio includes these reproductions, but the busy designers have since created their own motifs and exclusive colours, drawing inspiration from 18th century arts. “We compiled an exhaustive list of the existing colours during the Enlightenment period; we scrutinized paintings, decorative arts, even fashion before we established our own colour palette. Our collection reflects 18th century arts and styles, but we’ve adapted the materials to our 4

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