HALI

C O N T E N T S

Issu e51 Volume 12, N um ber3 Ju n e 1990

Alan M arcuson Deputy Editor Daniel Shaffer Chief Sub-Editor Kate Joh anna W e iner Assistant Editors M aria S ch la tte r . Jill T ild en Chief Contributing Editor

Ian Bennett Contributing Editors Donald K ing, S teven Cohen. Yanni Petsopoulos, Parviz Tanavoli,

Jam es Reid. John M ills, A lberto Boralevi, DeW itt M a l ian

Consultant Editors Robert P inner, M ichael F ranses

Art Editor L iz D ixon Assistant Art Editor

Amanda B akh t ia r

Art Assistant T a t F a n L iu

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Chris Jung Subscriptions Joyce B en tley -Sm ith L indsay A rm strong

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Anne M acA rthur

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Bobby M arcuson Publisher’s Assistant

S a rah Brook

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P lea se note: P rom 6 M a y 1990 our a r ea code f o r T e le p h o n e & F a r changed f r o m (01) to (071). AMember of The Centaur Communications Ltd. Group

97 EDITORIAL

The p a r a d o x o f the m a r k e t—everyone wants orien ta l carpets a c c ep t ed as m a instream works o f art, but n o-one wants to p a y the price. 99 LETTERS

S am G o rd en ’s HALI 49 Forum p ie c e on fragm en ts ’ h as p rodu c ed a sa lly o f response. 105 FRAGMENTS

Who will win the K h a lili Cup in London's up com ing S OAS Is Ia rnic Art C h a ir Challenge? 109 FORUM

Steven Cohen questions the d a t in g a n d aesthetic qualities o f the Vanderbilt Mughal carpet. 113 BOY MEETS RUG

Ron Harvie A C anadian writer an d rug en thusiast lighth earted ly d iscusses his B a lu ch rug. 114 TIME WARPS

Belkis B a lp in a r ’s Mural Kilim s Marianne Ellingworth B e lk is B a lp in a r designs an d w eaves a new an d exciting g en eration o f Anatolian kihms.

118 QUILT FACINGS AND MIRROR

COVERS Roderick R. Taylor The author, a keen co llec to r o f Turkish dom estic em broidery, suggests that the b eau tifu l exam p les norm a lly m is identified as curtains or hangings originally h a d en tirely different functions. 126 THE WORK OF SALEH

Donald N. W ilber A qu iz z ica l lo ok a t the p ervasive an d pow erfu l in flu ence ex erted by European traditions on the art o f Q a jar Persia. 130 MEMENTO MORI

O ttom an Childrens" Kaftans in the V ic to ria & Albert Museum 1 3 1 THE COURT CONTEXT

Patricia Baker 1 3 5 THE ROYAL GARMENTS: FABRIC. DESIGN,

TAILORING Jennifer Wearden 1 3 9 CONSERVATION

Ann French Originally p r eserv ed as roy a l grave goods, the Ottoman children's ka ftan s in the V&A’s collection o f fe r a unique opportunity f o r this multidisciplinary study. Their history, their construction an d design, an d the p roblem s en countered in th e ir conservation a r e ta ck led by th ree experts.

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