HALI

Editor & Publisher

Alan Marcuson Deputy Editor Daniel Shaffer Senior Editors Maria Schlatter, Jill Tilden

Assistant Editor

Jennifer Gill Editorial Co-ordinator

Judy Hirsh Tarek Chief Contributing Editor

Ian Bennett Contributing Editors AlbertoBoralevi, Steven Cohen Rosemary Crill,Michael Franses,

Donald King, John Mills DeWitt Mallary, Yanni Petsopoulos

Robert Pinner. James \\.Reid Philippa Scott. Parviz Tanavoh

Picture Librarian

John Stroud

Production Manager

Andrew Ryan Art Editor

Liz Dixon Assistant Art Editors Amanda Bakhtiar. Felicity Barich

Art .Assistant Tat Fan Liu

Sales & Marketing Director

Sebastian Ghandchi Advertisement Manager

Nicholas Fripp Advertisement Executive

Julie Wicks Advertisement Co-ordinator

Maire Costello

Subscriptions Grace Hilliar Distribution Marc Thomas

Administration Manager

Sarah Brook Publisher's Assistant

Wendy Kasabian Systems Manager Veronica Purdev

Receptionist Zobida Khan

The HALI German language supplement ispublished as an integral supplement to HALI.

Editor Maria Schlatter Translators Dorrit Dunn, Suzanne Mattern

The descriptions and attributions of pieces advertised in HALI are the individual advertiser’s sole responsibility.

83 EDITORIAL

85

89

91

93

94

Concern over the fate of the Kurds ismore than mere politics. INMEMORIAM .4 tribute to the late Joan Allgrove McDowell, to whom this issue is dedicated. LETTERS Animpassioned response to the Raj exhibition, discussion of the iconography o f two important early weavings, and Jack Cassin vents his spleen. FRAGMENTS Changes at the top for the Abegg-Stiftung and the C&A's Textile Department, a new Textile Arts Gallery and a clutch of unusual images, from a horse-cover to a Roman mosaic. FORUM Awide-ranging interview with Ialerie Mencles, the new head ofthe Departmentof7ex tiles an d Dress at London s Iictoria &Albert Museum. CONNOISSEUR SCHOICE Californian author and rug collector John Douglass recalls the discovery' of his 'Star Medallion 'Kazak, and the gradual recognition oj its significance. 96 THE AFSHAR PART 2

Tribal Weavings from Kerman Parviz Tanavoli The author concludes his study of Afshar history and weaving culture with a discussion of the rugs and trappings, both pile andjlatwoven, of Kerman province in south Persia. Four hundred years after, their enforced migration from Azerbaijan, some Afshari tribespeople living in Kerman still retain a nomadic lifestyle. 106 VIGOUR OF THE OUTER AIR

Donegal Carpets Malcolm Haslam Woven in northwest Ireland around the turn of the century, Donegal Arts &Crafts Movement carpets have a breadth and grace that deserve to be better known. 114 AUTUMN &WINTER

Joan Allftrove McDowell Romano-Egyptian embroideries are rare; embroidered portraits even more so. These elusive, beautiful panels are the starting point for an exploration of portrait personification in late Antique art, and an attempt to unravel the enigmas of age and origin.

5

HALI 57