ISSUE 112 SEPTEMBER/0CTOBER 2000

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CONTENTS

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9 | EDITORIAL

Friends and colleagues pay tribute to Krishna Riboud. pioneer and indefatigable champion o f the textile traditions o f the Indian Subcontinent. Southeast Asia and the Far East.

15 | LETTERS

More on those RKO rugs; right o f reply exercised by TSA and ACOR.

17 |NEWS

Changes in legislation open up the French auction market; a new rug gallery in Jaffa; news from Milan; competition results; remembering Jan Timmerman.

19 | POSTCARD

As a cultural tourist in Cambodia Diana Collins finds a nation looking to the future while still bearing many scars from the past.

21 | FRAGMENTS

Resplendently clean and fresh from the bath, the LA Ardabil is unveiled at a byinvitation Hampton Court levee; pearls for purity; a little detective work on an inscribed kilim.

41|PARIS SPECIAL REPORT

Jill Tilden and Rosario Canade discover the delights o f the Parisian carpet, textile and Islamic art scene, renewing many friendships on the way.

49 |PREVI EW

Mark Whiting Turkmens at Richard Purdon; Kuba textiles at Herman Vermeulen; anniversary celebrations at Krausse in Munich and Bausback o f Mannheim; Asian Art in London; the autumn auction season on both sides o f the Atlantic.

6i |CALENDAR

A world w ide listing o f auctions, exhibitions, fairs and conferences.

73 | BOOKS

Marcel Korolnik reviews Kurt Rainer’s Tasnacht; Jennifer Wearden on Roya Tagiyeva's AzerbaijanCarpet; Rosemary Crill reviews CostumesandTextilesofRoyal India by R itu Kumar.

75 | TITLES RECEIVED

A selection o f recently published books and catalogues.

77 | E-VIEW

Emmett Eiland finds that a DOBAG site offers food for thought; Steve Price on textile-art.com.

79 |WORKSHOP

A systematic look at 'Eagle gol' group weavings based on Annette Rautenstengel’s structural study.

89 | FORUM

Thomas Murray examines the unexpected appearance o f textile design elements from the Near Eastern Islam ic world in trade cloths woven in India and Southeast Asia.

92 | TRU E STITCH

Early Samplers and the Use of Double Running Stitch Jennifer Wearden The modesty and fam iliarity o f samplers sometimes obscure their fascination as documents of both technical and social interest. Here the author, a curator in the V&A costume and textile department, traces the use over five centuries o f a basic element in many samplers, the double running stitch that gives a 'true’ and continuous line on both sides o f the embroidery.

98 | BALKANS AND BACK

Monastir Prayer Rugs Sonny Berntsson The predominantly pale-ground, loosely woven prayer rugs known as Monastir were woven in two geographical areas, one in Europe, the other in Asia, reflecting the displacement o f a weaving community.

104 |CROSSING THE

HARSHLANDS AJourneyto the Karakorum Pass Paul Harris Following in the footsteps o f merchants, pilgrims and travellers o f earlier centuries, photojournalist

Paul Harris tests him self against extreme weather and terrain to fo llow part o f the bleakly grandiose transFlimalayan trade routes to the lim its o f the kingdom o f Ladakh.

111 | ISLAMIC ART

October Islam ic week auction previews; James Allan on Persian steel; Topkapi treasures; the life and times o f Jean Soustiel: summer in London Sam Fogg and Brendan Lynch: a joint professorship for Sheila Blair and Jonathan Bloom.

117 |THE HALI GALLERY

A house style advertisement section.

129 |REVIEW

The third HALI Fair brings increased crowds to Olympia; a mysterious Persian silk and wool pictorial kilim ; the New York Tribal Antiques Show; Chavin textiles at the TM; Caucasian rugs in Singapore from the collection o f Ben Fernandes; Anatolian kilims at Klosterkirche in Bavaria; a rare Nepalese embroidery sold at Christie's.

147 |AUCTION'PRICE GUIDE

More highlights from the spring auctions including important European pile carpets; Turkmens and other collector rugs in Germany.

155 |DESIGN FILE

The Atlanta Rugmart; goat-hair goes kozyak in Bulgaria: Bieber rugs; Renaissance Savonneries; new artistdesigned silk rugs; A tiyeh’s centenary crowned by a Hajji Jalili Tabriz rug.

165 |NETWORK

A classified advertisement section.

173 |PROFILE

Murray Eiland Jr interviewed by Thomas Cole.

174 IPARTI NG SHOTS

Action and reaction at the HALI Fair.

176 |LAST PAGE

John Carswell scrutinises differing approaches to East-West relations.

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