ISSUE 118 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2

CONTENTS

9 |EDITORIAL

Simon Franses and John Mills look back at art critic David Sylvester's contribution to the understanding and rediscovery o f carpets.

15 |LETTERS

W eft secrets o f th e Turkmen with Paul Mushak; AEDTA it's official; Berber from all angles; origins o f Van.

17 INEWS

A Mongol robe at Christie's; Neiriz and the future; a writer's award; more auction mergers.

19 |FRAGMENTS

An iconic rug space suggests more than it reveals; homing buzzard in Glasgow; spearheading the traditional at VITA; behind the scenes at the museum.

21 i POSTCARD

A regular traveller in Ethiopia. Martha Henze describes her quest for remote churches whose secrets include early fragments o f oriental carpets and kilims.

49 |PREVIEW

Exhibitions; David Reuben's Turkmens to show in New York; tasheh at Galerie Sofreh in Paris; Bertram Frauenknecht's 25th anniversary; Chinese silk over the centuries at E. J. Frankel in New York; The Asia Society looks at the Silk Road; Indianapolis borrows the Tsar's treasures; plenty o f activity in the Cotswolds with exhibitions at W itney Antiques, Samarkand Galleries and Richard Purdon, plus Turkmen x 4 at J.L. Arditti in Christchurch. Auctions: London Islamic W eek rug sales, with two important collections at Christie's.

57 |CALENDAR

A worldwide listing o f auctions, exhibitions, fairs and conferences.

67 | ISLAMIC ART

An exhibition o f the world's greatest Islamic glass opening at the Met; the long-buried IJmayyad city o f Madinat al-Zahra invites visitors to explore its past; plenty to look forward to in the autumn auction season: AIW goes digital.

73 !BOOKS

Murray Eiland III reviews The Turin Shroud Past, Present and Future: John Carswell on Philippa Scott’s Turkish Delights.

75 j TITLES RECEIVED

Recently published books and catalogues.

7 7!WORKSHOP

Steven Cohen encourages us to gather round for lesson one on simple weaves: plainweave, twill and satin.

81 |E-VI EW

Tom Stacy reviews carpet, textile, asian and tribal art portal Cloudband.com.

94 |FORUM

Persian or North Indian or the Deccan? Using a dated and inscribed prayer rug, Steven Cohen unravels some issues.

96 ICHAHAR MAHAL-E

BAKHTIARI GABBEH Parviz Tanavoli A Ears attribution is standard for gabbehs, with tribal labels favouring the I.ori and Qashqa'i but acknowledging khamseh and Bakhtiari weavings. Here the author looks at the distinctive features o f Bakhtiari gabbehs woven in the Chahar Mahal area.

102 |WHAT THE WOOL

TRADE WROUGHT Rug-Making in Early 20th Century Tianjin Elizabeth Bogen China’s early 20th century carpet production has so far received little attention, yet the rugs o f the port o f Tianjin provide complex evidence of the reciprocal influence o f East-West market forces and design ideas.

106 |MONEY IS THE CLOTH

OF FASHION Textiles from the Yoruba Region of Nigeria Duncan Clarke Cloth is more than the sum o f its parts in the Yoruba culture o f Nigeria. The author focuses on two main textile types - adire resist-dyed cloth and asa oke narrow-strip weaving - in this overview based on extensive field work.

113 | THE HALI GALLERY

A house style advertisement section.

127 |REVIEW

Exhibitions; Ainu culture in St Petersburg: fabulous creatures at the Abegg; Giilgonen's Anatolian village rugs back at the TIEM; plus quilts in Phoenix; Chinese needlework at the Wadsworth; private passions in LA; European embroidery at the Poldi Pezzoli, Milan; traditional and contem porary at the American Museum in Bath; Caucasian rugs at Atlantic Bay. Auctions; Coptic textiles from the Kelekian Collection in Paris and Richmond Collection embroideries at CSK in London. Fairs: Carpets at Grosvenor House, and a multitude o f voices provide a full length feature review o f th e 4th HALI Fair at Olympia.

149 |AUCTION PRICE GUIDE

First instalm ent o f the Spring sales selection from the UK. the USA and Germany, with more to come next time.

155 |DESIGN FILE

W inslow Elliot on the history o f the Atiyeh family; slowly does it in Atlanta; a talented tribe in Holland Park; ZurichPreilager fills the breach; Samad-Kelaty alliance; Gail Martin shows Rohde.

165 |NETWORK

A classified advertisement section.

173 |PROFILE

Visiting James Reid, Carl Strock braves the ordeal by cat's claw and learns o f men with beaks and wings.

174 |PARTING SHOTS

London's annual R&T bonanza at Olympia a.k.a. the 4th HALI Fair.

176 |LAST PAGE

Thomas Farnham applies a little retrospective psychology to the strange case o f the lady and the Ardabil.

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