ISSUE 1 2 5 N0 VEMBER/DECEMBER 2 0 0 2

CONTENTS

11 | EDITORIAL

Bold speculations abound as The Textile Museum honours the Anatolian classical tradition in Washington DC.

13 | LETTERS

A Kungrad is not a Kirghiz; remove the Franco from the Flemish: notes on a Monastir prayer rug; belated praise for ACOR's Baluch exhibition.

65 1 TITLES RECEIVED

Listings o f new books and catalogues.

75 | FORUM

O verlooked by textile collectors, ageing examples o f sim ple striped Anatolian kilim s are threatened with extinction. Harry Roll believes it's high time for a reappraisal o f this remnant o f early textile history.

15 | NEWS

Tibetan silk thanka again scales the auction heights; the Milan textile art fair's latest incarnation; Voigt's vicarage and other openings; Cloudband.com update; Valerie Berinstain remembered.

19 | FRAGMENTS

A duo o f early Afshars; a clothes label affordable to all; conveyor belt prayer rugs; Chicago's tapestries in need.

23 | SPECIAL REPORT

$ere f Ozen visits Kyrgzstan for the first ICOC to reach Central Asia.

76 jKHORASAN

SHRUB CARPETS C h r is t in e Klose Through careful analysis o f woven structure, colour and design, the author identifies a distinctive fam ily o f early east Persian 'shrub' design carpets, proposing a new classification system fo r its members. Previously attributed to other Safavid classical carpet genres, these knotted pile carpets are here clearly placed w ithin the Khorasan weaving tradition, and strong new evidence is presented dating them to the 17th and 18th centuries.

41 j PREVI EW

E xhibitions: All in a knot in Vienna: pulsating quilts at Olympia: at one with the forest in Santa Fe; Noh and Kyogen costumes in LA; original questions from the Met; brilliant velvets in Chicago.

45 | CALEN DAR

A worldwide listing o f auctions, exhibitions, fairs and conferences.

53 | ISLAM IC ART

An accolade for Dublin's Chester Beatty Library; London saleroom notes; an art robbery, Khalili et al at Leighton House: the Doris Duke Foundation opens up new possibilities in Honolulu; the Met reveals its Herzfeld archives; a fresh look at Tinrurid nephrite jade bowls.

63 IBOOKS

Kate Fitz G ibbon discusses Ikats from Turkestan, the catalogue to the Moscow exhibition o f Tair Tairov's Collection; Vanessa Drake Moraga on Yoshika W'ada's Memory on Cloth, ShiboriSow: Peter Lyman reviews Passages, Celebrating Rites o f Passage in Inscribed Armenian Rugs.

86 |AN INTOXICATING

VISION Shamanic Imagery in Pre-Columbian Textiles V anessa D rake Moraga Able through trance and the use o f hallucinogens to enter the supernatural realm and commune with the dead, shamans inspired awe and reverence within pre-Colum bian communities. In this article the author pursues themes o f shapeshifting and metamorphosis, and key images such as the jaguar and the aplomado falcon. She finds a textile culture in whose richly inflected imagery reality is continuously rendered fantastic.

94 | SIREU

Beaded Skirts from Papua M ichael C. H ow a rd Despite econom ic and cultural change, Sireu, or beaded skirts, are still produced on Ambai Island in northwestern New Guinea. No longer made for prim arily cerem onial wear, they continue to be valued highly, playing a vital role in marriage exchanges and as heirloom s.

99 | TH E HALI GALLERY

A house style advertisem ent section.

105 | REVIEW

E xh ib itio n s : In Istanbul: Talismanic shirts fit for a sultan or even a dervish at the Topkapi and Mehmet (jletinkaya's new gallery o f high art textiles; focus on prayer rugs at the Sackler Museum in Cambridge, MA; more o f Tair Tairov's bold ikats in Moscow; a south Persian rug treat at M inasian's in Evanston. IL: reading Armenian rug signatures at the Presidio, San Francisco; Tellem textiles in Paris; Japanese festival fever in LA; Toronto ancestral stories in cloth and clay; Congolese tie-dyeing in St Louis. MO: Imperial Chinese glories in NY: C o n fe ren c e s : Deryn O 'Connor on medieval dyestuffs and dyeing at the Courtauld Institute and Reading University; Fairs: The Biennale des Antiquaires and much more in Paris.

125 |AUCTION PRICE GUIDE

A sumakh bag is a steal in the English countryside; completing our coverage o f the spring sales.

133IMODERN CARPET FOCUS

A special advertorial section.

157 | DESIGN FILE

In London. Decorex and 100% Design 2002 give insight in to the British modern carpet industry; Contemporary Rugs: Art and Design reviewed by Driscoll Robbins; Margery Delvin is a natural in Tibet; Warhol's Mao looks good in silk.

167 | NETWO RK

A classified advertisement section.

173 | PRO FI LE

Passionate Boston rug collectors Rosalie and Mitch Rudnick talk to Carl Strock.

175 | PARTI NG SHOTS

Familiar faces at art fairs, and gallery openings in New York and Istanbul.

176 | LAST PAGE

Can the auction houses justify charging a Buyer's Premium for the last 27 years? Frank Doran MP believes not.

HAM 125 | 5