Contents Turkey for Connoisseurs

Rome’s Eternal Heritage Cover: The Roman Arch at Milas. Photograph by Don McCullin

On the Road Again

Don McCullin and Barnaby Rogerson’s Roman finale:

from deepest Phrygia to glorious Pamphylia · 60

Ancient Roaming

Sir Don’s modern odyssey: a light-hearted guide to three epic journeys,

by Barnaby Rogerson and Monica Fritz · 88

Art and Architecture ‘Asia has Claims upon New England’

Robert Ousterhout on 19th-century America’s obsession with the kings of Assyria · 30

The Poetry of Silence

Istanbul distilled: Andrew Finkel on the cool photography of Annette Louise Solakoğlu · 114


Man of War and Peace JF Lewis’s pasha reclaimed, by Briony Llewellyn and Charles Newton · 5

Food for Mind and Soul Thomas Roueché on the message of the Istanbul Biennial · 8

Diplomatic Secrets Philip Mansel on the splendour of Ottoman briefcases · 10


Truth and Beauty Rupert Scott on the demise and legacy of the Ottoman Empire · 21 Meeting of Minds Caroline Finkel discovers a titan of 17th-century Ottoman letters · 25

Ottoman Manners An early Turkish costume book, by William Kynan-Wilson · 26


Winged Victory Gernant Magnin on the return of the Gediz Delta’s magnificent birds · 38

Food and Wine

Pressing the Flesh The piquant story of pastırma, by Berrin Torolsan · 134 New Wine from Old Grapes Cosima Stewart on a scholarly vintner in the caves of Cappadocia · 140

Feast from the East Andrew Finkel on Istanbul’s new addiction to far-flung flavours · 162

From Our Correspondents Private View Andrew Finkel on the mysteries that sparked his novel · 16 Jazz Ambassadors Tony Barrell joined the fun when the Nardis Jazz Club came to London · 154

The Magnificent Four John Shakespeare Dyson on the masterful Borusan Quartet · 156

Now and Then Thomas Roueché on challenging new art · 160


A Last Letter from Anatolia Nick Thorpe pays tribute to the late, great Roger Norman · 158